Kris Van Assche has a very specific aesthetic that he has to combine with Hedi Slimane’s archetypal look of modern masculinity or androgyny if you may say.
In this collection for Dior Homme, Van Assche combined his sensibilities for something more conceptual and less fussy, but the structures of the pieces are never lazy. For example, take a voluminous jacket on one side that transforms into a cape at the other side. There is drama going on with the collection and he worked the fabrics with ease.
The accessories are a big part of the collection. This season, sandals are at the centre stage. Dior Homme’s sandals are exquisite and practically the most wearable of all. Bags are slouchy and oversized representing oversized shopping totes in leather.
The clothes have an ease to it, the shirts are cut in the bias creating a very dynamic look. Deep V-neck shirts are also present as well as pants with a very prominent ease to them. Black and white is the prominent colour story for the collection.
The Dior Homme collection is much laid back, full of energy and dynamism. You might not be able to wear ultra voluminous suit capes but you can surely extract amazing shirts, footwear, pants and bags to add to your collection. The colours were muted but there is a light and airy feeling in the collection as the models trudge along across a white, graphic and circular runway.
There are reliable pieces that can be extracted, but all in all, there is a specific market that will work for the collection, surely European and Japanese markets are surely waiting for the pieces to sell very soon.